U204L9A6

BILLY'S has produced its first special-order model with New Balance, the U204L9A6, going on sale on Saturday 7 November. Pre-orders open earlier, on Friday 30 October, on the BILLY'S online store.

BILLY'S is a Tokyo select shop that sells through its own online store, billys-tokyo.net, and the label has marketed this shoe under the name "Black Coffee". The source describes this as the shop's first New Balance special order, which gives the release more weight than a routine colourway.

The base is the 204L, a model that reinterprets 2000s running style. BILLY'S describes it as built on the last of the 320, with a thin, light sole. BILLY'S treatment is deliberately restrained: a tonal brown described as deep and calm, like coffee, intended to sit comfortably in autumn and winter outfits. The aim, in the words of the release, is to add something close to the dignity of a leather shoe to the lightness of a runner.

That intention shows in the materials. The upper combines three: pig suede, smooth leather and rough mesh. Using the same colour across all three keeps the shoe quiet, and lets the differences in texture do the work. Two sets of laces come in the box, one brown and one turquoise blue. The blue pair is the only strong contrast in the whole design.

The U204L9A6 costs 14,300 yen including tax. It goes on general sale on 7 November, with the pre-order window on the BILLY'S online store opening a week before. A wearing shot in the BILLY'S campaign pairs the shoe with a wide, soft-shouldered brown suit and a dark roll neck, which shows how the brand expects it to be styled.